We departed Sibuya knowing that we had a long drive of almost 6 hours to travel to the picturesque hamlet of Coffee Bay, but none of our literature or reading prepared us for the rough driving on in made roads wth deep pot holes.

The first hour or so was a drive out of Kenton on Sea, a quaint seaside resort town and through undulating countryside.

But from there the journey changed markedly as we travelled across rough and challenging countryside with the aim of traversing roads between the highways to eventually get us back onto bitumen.

The drive was interesting as we also passed through a variety of townships consisting of many shanty town type constructions and everywhere there were many people walking haphazardly along either side of the road of all ages and shapes and sizes. Additionally, there were the continuing goats, cows and monkeys so there was a continuing challenge to drive on roads that can only be described as deplorable with monstrous pot holes and cross camber angles.

Just to simplify the challenge the GPS maintained that these were non roads, but kept providing regular instructions. This went on for almost 2 hours climbing in and out of valleys and across hill tops. You may sense that this was frustrating, but we are sure that these tracks should only be challenged in a high four wheel drive and not a state of the art BMW 320d.

We reached a township after 2 hours and felt like we had found civilisation. Suffice to say we also felt uncomfortable driving in these locales , where we were clearly the only "fair skinned" people.

Jeanette took over and we looked for toilet and eating facilities, but there was nothing in these roads so we needed to improvise and that was challenging as there were few trees and the side of these gravel roads were often steeply banked. The next hour was easier and we found a better road, but the GPS still failed to record the address of the Ocean View Hotel and Coffee Bay. We put in a nearby Town named "Mthatha" and this proved sound as we were now back on a very good highway having finally cut across the countryside. Little did we know that this was going to cause difficulties, because after another 90 minutes, we drove past the turn off to Coffee Bay, then drove the 28mile into Mthatha, before realising that we were in the wrong place. This was certainly not the type of township that 2 Aussies should be driving in late afternoon. Yet it was very interesting although we were somewhat nervous as to the environment and did Ferla a little unsafe. Certainly not something we would do at home.

We reprogrammed the GPS and found that we had traveled some 52 mile out of our way.

The GPS took us back to the Coffee Bay turnoff but we still had some 53 miles from the turnoff and the standard of the road deteriorated back to a paved but pot holed road. The light was beginning to fade at 5.30pm but we still had about an hour yo drive. Jeanette was able to follow a vehicle obviously driven by a local with current knowledge and we drove the distance in about 70 minutes. She did a remarkable job for people having no knowledge of the terrain.

Eventually we reach d the address and the hotel was inside a locked secure compound, with guards on the gate. We checked in and then had dinner.

The restaurant was on a level above the rooms to take account of the wonderful views of the surf, which in the morning was just beautiful and 8-10 feet of rolling waves thundering into the beach.

We had no realisation upon arrival as to how close the beach was. We were just happy to get there.

This had been perhaps the hardest day's driving that we have ever undertaken. The hotel accommodation is comfortable and probably a good 3 star. Needless to say we both sleep well. But you would understand that we harbour some concerns as to tomorrow's drive out of here and then to another idyllic seaside location.

We awake after a good night's sleep, to just wonderful views of an incredible surf beach with us recognising somewhere very special. Over breakfast we talk to a lady from Perth, who migrated to Australia from South Africa, some 10 years ago. They have family still in Durban and still come back to this beautiful part of the world when holidaying.

She was very surprised to hear that we had driven into Mthatha on our way. She understood that we took an incorrect route and commented that that is not the type of area, they would venture into. She also commented that the drive from the turn off is on poor roads and through isolated native townships. But also commented that a Coffee Bay stopover presents just amazing views of a superb Bay and magnificent surf with rolling thunderous waves.

We depart after a delightful breakfast n the fining room taking in the views. Just superb.